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- Polish a classic.
Polish a classic.
- By D Bishop
- Published 08/17/2008
- Restoration Articles
D Bishop
Retired, Robotics Engineeer, Real Estate Broker, Rancher, Lumber Dealer, Master Electrician, Pilot, and a few other odd and sundry ventures.
View all articles by D Bishopshine a classic
This is my first article so please bear with me, I hope to get better as I do more of this.
When first attempting to polish our 1965 Caravel (WBCCI # 2240) I tried several methods of removing the old varnish finish and finally settled on "Zip Strip" direct from my local hardware store. It worked very well and was very economical. I applied it to about 4 sq ft at a time and allowed about 10 to 15 minutes for the finish to wrinkle then washed it off with the garden hose. Some places I had to do a second application. Once the entire surface was clean I had to come up with a method of polishing that was satisfactory.
I first started with normal car body buffing compound. Starting with the finest grade first which was slow so I went to the next courser grade which left too ruff a finish to my liking so I went back to the fine grade. Being rather conservative with my initial approach I was doing this all by hand, which was of course very labor intensive. Next I bought a medium speed buffer thinking this would reduce the work, which it did, but left circle marks which I didn't like. So back the the fine buffing compound and the old elbow grease. The finish was still not as shiny as I wished so I did some searching and came up with a product called NEVR-DULL, it comes in a small 5 oz can, again found at the local hardware store. The product is a cotton role impregnated with a very fine buffing compound, similar to jeweler's rouge. You pull off about 3 to 4 inches and use it until it no longer polishes. I found that I liked the finish when I rubbed the cotton pad vertically.

It was a lot of work but I think worth the effort. It took me about 2 weeks of working a couple of hours per day to get the job done. I am very proud of the effect and the neighbors who observed my efforts seem impressed. There are a couple of spots that have some additional corrosion, after 43 years of the hot dry Colorado climate, that still need a little work. I plan to polish those spots with the fine car buffing compound and the electric buffer then finish them off with a final application, by hand, of the NEVR-DULL. Once the all the work was accomplished I put on a coat of Turtle Wax. It appears a coat of wax about once a year is going to keep the shine I worked so hard to get.
So far I haven't seen any 40 year old Airstreams that look any better. We have just completed refurbishing the interior and it looks great as well. We have only taken it on one longer trip, about 1000 miles, but have had it on several short jaunts. We have owned it about 18 years but I just retired and now have the time to do the things that I want to, so that was my first project.
Good luck in your restoration projects. If I can give you any help feel free to contact me.
Don
When first attempting to polish our 1965 Caravel (WBCCI # 2240) I tried several methods of removing the old varnish finish and finally settled on "Zip Strip" direct from my local hardware store. It worked very well and was very economical. I applied it to about 4 sq ft at a time and allowed about 10 to 15 minutes for the finish to wrinkle then washed it off with the garden hose. Some places I had to do a second application. Once the entire surface was clean I had to come up with a method of polishing that was satisfactory.
I first started with normal car body buffing compound. Starting with the finest grade first which was slow so I went to the next courser grade which left too ruff a finish to my liking so I went back to the fine grade. Being rather conservative with my initial approach I was doing this all by hand, which was of course very labor intensive. Next I bought a medium speed buffer thinking this would reduce the work, which it did, but left circle marks which I didn't like. So back the the fine buffing compound and the old elbow grease. The finish was still not as shiny as I wished so I did some searching and came up with a product called NEVR-DULL, it comes in a small 5 oz can, again found at the local hardware store. The product is a cotton role impregnated with a very fine buffing compound, similar to jeweler's rouge. You pull off about 3 to 4 inches and use it until it no longer polishes. I found that I liked the finish when I rubbed the cotton pad vertically. 
It was a lot of work but I think worth the effort. It took me about 2 weeks of working a couple of hours per day to get the job done. I am very proud of the effect and the neighbors who observed my efforts seem impressed. There are a couple of spots that have some additional corrosion, after 43 years of the hot dry Colorado climate, that still need a little work. I plan to polish those spots with the fine car buffing compound and the electric buffer then finish them off with a final application, by hand, of the NEVR-DULL. Once the all the work was accomplished I put on a coat of Turtle Wax. It appears a coat of wax about once a year is going to keep the shine I worked so hard to get.
So far I haven't seen any 40 year old Airstreams that look any better. We have just completed refurbishing the interior and it looks great as well. We have only taken it on one longer trip, about 1000 miles, but have had it on several short jaunts. We have owned it about 18 years but I just retired and now have the time to do the things that I want to, so that was my first project.
Good luck in your restoration projects. If I can give you any help feel free to contact me.
Don
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13 Responses to "Polish a classic." 
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said this on 21 Aug 2008 12:56:36 PM EST
Don, so far it sounds like you've landed on a great method that worked for you.
I'd love to see that photo with the polished canoe up close - any chance you can upload it again with a higher res version?
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said this on 22 Aug 2008 10:17:57 PM EST
The airstream forum won't accept a higher resolution. Space restrictions I think. If you wish you may send me your e-mail address to dbishop38@centurytel.net and I can send it to you directly in higher resolution. When I finished polishing the Airstream I thought the canoe looked shabby so I polished it the same way I did the trailer. I also designed and built the canoe rack for the Dodge Dakota which I think is rather unique. I will send you a picture of it as well if you wish. It allows me and my wife to load and unload the canoe with a minimum of effort.
Don
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said this on 24 Aug 2008 10:04:26 PM EST
Don, I'd love to see those pictures a little closer. Thanks for your troble. Jerry
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said this on 25 Aug 2008 12:07:16 PM EST
I'm not sure which pictures you mean. The ones of the shower curtain track or the ones of my polished rig? If you already have the pictures just click on them they should highlight a dot in each corner and if they do you can drag the picture open larger by dragging the corner. Let me know and I will do what I can to help.
Don
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said this on 25 Aug 2008 8:48:40 PM EST
Looks Great!! Please advise me on reshining my recently purchased 1994 classic excella
thanks, liz
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said this on 28 Aug 2008 4:53:40 PM EST
I would guess that the lacquar finish is still in pretty good condition on this age vehicle. If this finish is not rippled or starting to release I would just give it a coat of good quality car wax and buff. If the lacquar is starting to release then you may need to follow the procedure in my article. Don't rush into removing the finish unless you have to. D Bishop
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said this on 31 Aug 2008 10:05:23 PM EST
Hi Mr. Bishop,
I am in the process of remodeling my 1967 Land yacht and I need advise and maybe some instruction as to how to rewire the entire trailer. I stripped all of the wire because it was aluminum wiring. Over the years people added copper wire apliances and caused little fires in the walls. I have gutted the entire trailer and need to rewire all elecrtic. I have bought an elecrical service for a hose and plan on using it because I plan on going all electric. I have bought prewired 12 gauge three strand flex conduit. How do I go about wiring it up to a converter for the trailer lights or does the truck power light the trailer? I am a Master carpenter by traid and need guidance with electrical matters. Can you help me?
Rusty L. Sinclair
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said this on 01 Sep 2008 7:55:36 PM EST
Did you make a wireing diagram when you removed the Old wiring? If so all you need to do is duplicate the wireing with the new copper wire. I was unaware they wired any trailers with aluminum, (what a disaster, I have had to replace and repair several homes that were wired with aluminum). Aluminum expands and contracts excessively when charged which works the connections loose leading to heat and sparking, you may already know this. The converter just acts as an interface and battery charger from the 120VAC shore power to the 12 VDC to keep the battery charged. The lights, water pump, etc. run off the 12VDC battery. Some units have a line from the trailer plug to the pull vehicle that keeps the battery charged while connected. I have disconnected this service from my trailer plug, ( I didn't want it to have the possibility of running down the battery of my pull unit. I use a 14watt 14 VDC self regulating Solar panel to keep my battery charged. I have never had any problem with this arrangement keeping up with my needs. I do live in the arid west with lots of sunshine which might be a problem if you live in a more overcast climate. I hope you bought stranded wire, it is less prone to break due to vibration. The 120VAC plugs will wire from your breaker panel in the same manner used in residential wireing. The breaker panel will be powered from the shore power line. You will want to run a line from the breaker panel to the converter to give wiring protection to this circuit. The 12VDC lights, water pump and any other appliances supplied that require DC voltage will be powered directly from the battery, (through fuse Blocks to protect the wiring system for the same purpose as your breaker panel. I hope this helps. Contact me as you progress if you need further advice. Don
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said this on 29 Sep 2008 5:08:39 PM EST
D...
While it looks sharp, we found another item that is used by the USAF on days gone by planes. Called Met*all another is ROLITE. Both are applied by wipe on and wipe off. Some hints as to less work getting it off. We used to use corn starch or flour spinkled on the skin then buffed. It turns back with the oxide but really polishes the alu to a mirror finish.
That being said... a word of caution.
You may like it reflecting like a mirror but the guy next to you in the campground may not like the reflective glare your causing.
We had to leave a campground because we polished up our airstream to a nice brillance. When the sun came around, both sides of us went to the manager and complained. She came down and agreeded with the others, we were a unwanted glare. She asked us to leave and said to stop by the office on the way out and she would refund the fee.
This was not the first time nor the last time we were asked to either cover the trailer up or move on because of the glare the brightness of the reflection made.
We also were stopped by the highway petrol and ticketed in one state... as they said about the same thing... we were a hazzard to other drivers vision.
So those who are thinking about taking their high priced non mirror finished , the way airstream made it, trailer and having it buffed up might want to think about the associated problems to others. One final thing also. Buffing the trailer skin to mirror finish takes the clear coating off it. This was put on to serve two purposes.
First it kept the trailer sealed
Second it protected the bare alu from corrosion and attack of the elements. (the guy who bought mine... within a year was having problems keeping the alum from developing white spots (corrosion) where the elements from the environment were attacking it) He finally clear coated it once again and it remains to this day the same brilance.
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said this on 22 Nov 2008 10:01:16 PM EST
Im researching the idea of taking care of my 29' Airstream's exterior oxidation. I have to agree, I would prefer cleaning, buffing, polishing, then clear coating. The problem is, I only know of one place in Ohio that does the clearcoating, and it's $285/ft. I asked if they would discount the price if I brought it in and they did just a clearcoat. They said no.
Do you know of anyone who does professional clearcoating of Airstreams? that being said, the company said it's only going to hold up for about 8-10 years before another polish and re-spray will be needed.
thanks!
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said this on 29 Oct 2008 11:53:09 PM EST
Have you ever used a Turtle Wax product called 'Clear Guard'? It was a wipe on and wipe off that was so easy that I could do the whole rig in less than an hour w/ minimal work. Turtle Wax doesn't make it anymore and they recommended a product called ICE. Haven't tried it yet but need to do a poontoon w/ alum tubes and sure would like an easy product to use. Any suggestions?
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said this on 02 Dec 2008 11:16:14 AM EST
Don, thanks for your reply and pictures. (St. Simons Island, GA.) I just bought a 1990 Excella 25' (Iam new at this) I will soon start some up-grades. It needs to be cleaned/Polished. Iam in the marine business and we use 3M products on fiberglass/Gel-coat and it works great(3M Finesse-it compound with 3M waffle face soft foam polishing pads) with a 7" veriable speed buffer. Will this work on Airstream trailers? Do you have to seal it and whats a long lasting wax? Thanks, Alan Akers www.akersyachts.com
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said this on 09 Dec 2008 2:49:04 PM EST
Don, any relpy on 3M products. Thanks, Alan Akers
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