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- Polish a classic.
Polish a classic.
- By D Bishop
- Published 08/17/2008
- Restoration Articles
D Bishop
Retired, Robotics Engineeer, Real Estate Broker, Rancher, Lumber Dealer, Master Electrician, Pilot, and a few other odd and sundry ventures.
View all articles by D Bishopshine a classic
This is my first article so please bear with me, I hope to get better as I do more of this.
When first attempting to polish our 1965 Caravel (WBCCI # 2240) I tried several methods of removing the old varnish finish and finally settled on "Zip Strip" direct from my local hardware store. It worked very well and was very economical. I applied it to about 4 sq ft at a time and allowed about 10 to 15 minutes for the finish to wrinkle then washed it off with the garden hose. Some places I had to do a second application. Once the entire surface was clean I had to come up with a method of polishing that was satisfactory.
I first started with normal car body buffing compound. Starting with the finest grade first which was slow so I went to the next courser grade which left too ruff a finish to my liking so I went back to the fine grade. Being rather conservative with my initial approach I was doing this all by hand, which was of course very labor intensive. Next I bought a medium speed buffer thinking this would reduce the work, which it did, but left circle marks which I didn't like. So back the the fine buffing compound and the old elbow grease. The finish was still not as shiny as I wished so I did some searching and came up with a product called NEVR-DULL, it comes in a small 5 oz can, again found at the local hardware store. The product is a cotton role impregnated with a very fine buffing compound, similar to jeweler's rouge. You pull off about 3 to 4 inches and use it until it no longer polishes. I found that I liked the finish when I rubbed the cotton pad vertically.
It was a lot of work but I think worth the effort. It took me about 2 weeks of working a couple of hours per day to get the job done. I am very proud of the effect and the neighbors who observed my efforts seem impressed. There are a couple of spots that have some additional corrosion, after 43 years of the hot dry Colorado climate, that still need a little work. I plan to polish those spots with the fine car buffing compound and the electric buffer then finish them off with a final application, by hand, of the NEVR-DULL. Once the all the work was accomplished I put on a coat of Turtle Wax. It appears a coat of wax about once a year is going to keep the shine I worked so hard to get.
So far I haven't seen any 40 year old Airstreams that look any better. We have just completed refurbishing the interior and it looks great as well. We have only taken it on one longer trip, about 1000 miles, but have had it on several short jaunts. We have owned it about 18 years but I just retired and now have the time to do the things that I want to, so that was my first project.
Good luck in your restoration projects. If I can give you any help feel free to contact me.
Don
When first attempting to polish our 1965 Caravel (WBCCI # 2240) I tried several methods of removing the old varnish finish and finally settled on "Zip Strip" direct from my local hardware store. It worked very well and was very economical. I applied it to about 4 sq ft at a time and allowed about 10 to 15 minutes for the finish to wrinkle then washed it off with the garden hose. Some places I had to do a second application. Once the entire surface was clean I had to come up with a method of polishing that was satisfactory.
I first started with normal car body buffing compound. Starting with the finest grade first which was slow so I went to the next courser grade which left too ruff a finish to my liking so I went back to the fine grade. Being rather conservative with my initial approach I was doing this all by hand, which was of course very labor intensive. Next I bought a medium speed buffer thinking this would reduce the work, which it did, but left circle marks which I didn't like. So back the the fine buffing compound and the old elbow grease. The finish was still not as shiny as I wished so I did some searching and came up with a product called NEVR-DULL, it comes in a small 5 oz can, again found at the local hardware store. The product is a cotton role impregnated with a very fine buffing compound, similar to jeweler's rouge. You pull off about 3 to 4 inches and use it until it no longer polishes. I found that I liked the finish when I rubbed the cotton pad vertically. It was a lot of work but I think worth the effort. It took me about 2 weeks of working a couple of hours per day to get the job done. I am very proud of the effect and the neighbors who observed my efforts seem impressed. There are a couple of spots that have some additional corrosion, after 43 years of the hot dry Colorado climate, that still need a little work. I plan to polish those spots with the fine car buffing compound and the electric buffer then finish them off with a final application, by hand, of the NEVR-DULL. Once the all the work was accomplished I put on a coat of Turtle Wax. It appears a coat of wax about once a year is going to keep the shine I worked so hard to get.
So far I haven't seen any 40 year old Airstreams that look any better. We have just completed refurbishing the interior and it looks great as well. We have only taken it on one longer trip, about 1000 miles, but have had it on several short jaunts. We have owned it about 18 years but I just retired and now have the time to do the things that I want to, so that was my first project.
Good luck in your restoration projects. If I can give you any help feel free to contact me.
Don
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18 Responses to "Polish a classic."
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said this on 21 Aug 2008 12:56:36 PM CST
Don, so far it sounds like you've landed on a great method that worked for you.
I'd love to see that photo with the polished canoe up close - any chance you can upload it again with a higher res version? |
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said this on 22 Aug 2008 10:17:57 PM CST
The airstream forum won't accept a higher resolution. Space restrictions I think. If you wish you may send me your e-mail address to dbishop38@centurytel.net and I can send it to you directly in higher resolution. When I finished polishing the Airstream I thought the canoe looked shabby so I polished it the same way I did the trailer. I also designed and built the canoe rack for the Dodge Dakota which I think is rather unique. I will send you a picture of it as well if you wish. It allows me and my wife to load and unload the canoe with a minimum of effort.
Don |
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said this on 24 Aug 2008 10:04:26 PM CST
Don, I'd love to see those pictures a little closer. Thanks for your troble. Jerry
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said this on 25 Aug 2008 12:07:16 PM CST
I'm not sure which pictures you mean. The ones of the shower curtain track or the ones of my polished rig? If you already have the pictures just click on them they should highlight a dot in each corner and if they do you can drag the picture open larger by dragging the corner. Let me know and I will do what I can to help.
Don |
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said this on 25 Aug 2008 8:48:40 PM CST
Looks Great!! Please advise me on reshining my recently purchased 1994 classic excella
thanks, liz |
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said this on 28 Aug 2008 4:53:40 PM CST
I would guess that the lacquar finish is still in pretty good condition on this age vehicle. If this finish is not rippled or starting to release I would just give it a coat of good quality car wax and buff. If the lacquar is starting to release then you may need to follow the procedure in my article. Don't rush into removing the finish unless you have to. D Bishop
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said this on 31 Aug 2008 10:05:23 PM CST
Hi Mr. Bishop,
I am in the process of remodeling my 1967 Land yacht and I need advise and maybe some instruction as to how to rewire the entire trailer. I stripped all of the wire because it was aluminum wiring. Over the years people added copper wire apliances and caused little fires in the walls. I have gutted the entire trailer and need to rewire all elecrtic. I have bought an elecrical service for a hose and plan on using it because I plan on going all electric. I have bought prewired 12 gauge three strand flex conduit. How do I go about wiring it up to a converter for the trailer lights or does the truck power light the trailer? I am a Master carpenter by traid and need guidance with electrical matters. Can you help me? Rusty L. Sinclair |
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said this on 01 Sep 2008 7:55:36 PM CST
Did you make a wireing diagram when you removed the Old wiring? If so all you need to do is duplicate the wireing with the new copper wire. I was unaware they wired any trailers with aluminum, (what a disaster, I have had to replace and repair several homes that were wired with aluminum). Aluminum expands and contracts excessively when charged which works the connections loose leading to heat and sparking, you may already know this. The converter just acts as an interface and battery charger from the 120VAC shore power to the 12 VDC to keep the battery charged. The lights, water pump, etc. run off the 12VDC battery. Some units have a line from the trailer plug to the pull vehicle that keeps the battery charged while connected. I have disconnected this service from my trailer plug, ( I didn't want it to have the possibility of running down the battery of my pull unit. I use a 14watt 14 VDC self regulating Solar panel to keep my battery charged. I have never had any problem with this arrangement keeping up with my needs. I do live in the arid west with lots of sunshine which might be a problem if you live in a more overcast climate. I hope you bought stranded wire, it is less prone to break due to vibration. The 120VAC plugs will wire from your breaker panel in the same manner used in residential wireing. The breaker panel will be powered from the shore power line. You will want to run a line from the breaker panel to the converter to give wiring protection to this circuit. The 12VDC lights, water pump and any other appliances supplied that require DC voltage will be powered directly from the battery, (through fuse Blocks to protect the wiring system for the same purpose as your breaker panel. I hope this helps. Contact me as you progress if you need further advice. Don
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said this on 29 Sep 2008 5:08:39 PM CST
D...
While it looks sharp, we found another item that is used by the USAF on days gone by planes. Called Met*all another is ROLITE. Both are applied by wipe on and wipe off. Some hints as to less work getting it off. We used to use corn starch or flour spinkled on the skin then buffed. It turns back with the oxide but really polishes the alu to a mirror finish. That being said... a word of caution. You may like it reflecting like a mirror but the guy next to you in the campground may not like the reflective glare your causing. We had to leave a campground because we polished up our airstream to a nice brillance. When the sun came around, both sides of us went to the manager and complained. She came down and agreeded with the others, we were a unwanted glare. She asked us to leave and said to stop by the office on the way out and she would refund the fee. This was not the first time nor the last time we were asked to either cover the trailer up or move on because of the glare the brightness of the reflection made. We also were stopped by the highway petrol and ticketed in one state... as they said about the same thing... we were a hazzard to other drivers vision. So those who are thinking about taking their high priced non mirror finished , the way airstream made it, trailer and having it buffed up might want to think about the associated problems to others. One final thing also. Buffing the trailer skin to mirror finish takes the clear coating off it. This was put on to serve two purposes. First it kept the trailer sealed Second it protected the bare alu from corrosion and attack of the elements. (the guy who bought mine... within a year was having problems keeping the alum from developing white spots (corrosion) where the elements from the environment were attacking it) He finally clear coated it once again and it remains to this day the same brilance. |
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said this on 06 Nov 2009 8:22:16 AM CST
Thanks loads for the suggestion to perhaps accept shine with moderation. I've been trying to bring my '65 Safari up to a level of non-embarrassment. The skin is dented here and there plus has three levels of shine: moderate dull where the old varnish is and I have used Mothers cleaner polish, shiny where the varnish has fallen off and I have used Mothers aluminum cleaner polish, and speckled/mottled/wierd in the transition areas in between. In 4 weeks we gotta go 1500 miles south to campgrounds and live amidst the 150K "American Thunders" and just didn't know what to tell them. Now we've got some answers!!!
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said this on 22 Nov 2008 10:01:16 PM CST
Im researching the idea of taking care of my 29' Airstream's exterior oxidation. I have to agree, I would prefer cleaning, buffing, polishing, then clear coating. The problem is, I only know of one place in Ohio that does the clearcoating, and it's $285/ft. I asked if they would discount the price if I brought it in and they did just a clearcoat. They said no.
Do you know of anyone who does professional clearcoating of Airstreams? that being said, the company said it's only going to hold up for about 8-10 years before another polish and re-spray will be needed. thanks! |
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said this on 19 Apr 2009 6:52:25 PM CST
Funny thing about the state patrol they allow semi trailers with polished rear doors. I know they would get us for any violation they can find.
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said this on 29 Oct 2008 11:53:09 PM CST
Have you ever used a Turtle Wax product called 'Clear Guard'? It was a wipe on and wipe off that was so easy that I could do the whole rig in less than an hour w/ minimal work. Turtle Wax doesn't make it anymore and they recommended a product called ICE. Haven't tried it yet but need to do a poontoon w/ alum tubes and sure would like an easy product to use. Any suggestions?
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said this on 02 Dec 2008 11:16:14 AM CST
Don, thanks for your reply and pictures. (St. Simons Island, GA.) I just bought a 1990 Excella 25' (Iam new at this) I will soon start some up-grades. It needs to be cleaned/Polished. Iam in the marine business and we use 3M products on fiberglass/Gel-coat and it works great(3M Finesse-it compound with 3M waffle face soft foam polishing pads) with a 7" veriable speed buffer. Will this work on Airstream trailers? Do you have to seal it and whats a long lasting wax? Thanks, Alan Akers www.akersyachts.com
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said this on 11 Jan 2009 10:54:14 PM CST
Thanks for the information on polishing. I just bought a 72 31 foot International . I have painted the inside. Installed custom blinds installed a light oak laminated floor. Reconfigured the twin beds to a double bed and installed a new couch. I removed some of the overhead storage to make room for me to stand. Next comes new waterheater and new pex plumbing. I am interesting in improving the finish but I am unsure about the mirror shine. Oh yeah I am going to need new tires. Any suggestions?
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said this on 22 Mar 2009 3:34:56 PM CST
We're new to Airstreams and have been looking for about a month now. One we are considering has chipping in the clearcoat and otherwise seems to be in very good condition. Is this going to be a problem to get that shiny finish?
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said this on 22 Mar 2009 4:39:13 PM CST
Susan,
I doubt that the chipping will be a big deal. I removed the entire clear coat on ours in order to get the shiny finish I wanted. Ours is a 1965 and the clear coat was pealing and was badly weather checked. I used Zip Strip paint remover to take all the clear coat off. There may be better removers but this one worked fine for me and it is easy to come by at most any local hardware store. I would brush the stripper on an area of approximately 4 to 6 Sq. ft. then washed it of with a garden hose once it had released. If it didn't all come off with one application I would do it again. There was corrosion on some of the aluminum so I hand polished it to remove this slight damage. If you cover too large an area at one time the clear coat tends to reset. You will notice it crinkling up indicating it is releasing. I think you will get the hang of it after a couple of trys on small areas. I would recommend you do a small surface at first to make sure it is doing what you want before you take on too large an area. Be careful of gaskets around doors and windows some of them don't like the remover too well. I had no real problem, if you notice discoloration of these areas wash them off quicker. Once the clear coat was completely removed I polished the clean aluminum with Nevr-dul. There are other products that may be faster but that one gave me the bright finish I wanted. You can also use differant grades of automoble paint buffing compounds, again try a small area at a time. Some of the buffing compounds tend to be a little too agressive, there are several grades. Once all the polishing was done I just wax the surface with a good quality car wax. Turtle Wax seems to work fine. I try to wax mine at least once a year. I took the clear coat off 2 years ago and am still very pleased with the results. If you want to ask me specific questions you may contact me at mailto:dbishop38@centuryt el.net I live in south central Colorado, if you are anywhere near I might be able to come see and help you make decisions regarding your trailer. Don't let the chips keep you from buying a good Airstream, most especially if the structure is sound and the interior can be brought up to snuff. Ours was in very good condition, we were lucky, we have owned it 19 years and only just recently started upgrading it. New upholstry, water heater, furnace. We feel it is as good as new for us. We just took it on the longest trip we have taken it on. We went to Elephant Butte Lake, NM. That is about 500 miles from our home. We were there 2 weeks and loved it. I am retired so we are using it more now. I will send you pictures of ours if you wish and are willing to share your e-mail address. Don |
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said this on 10 Apr 2009 8:05:57 PM CST
Don,
What did you use to buff off the never-dull once you polished it. Also, I started to try it on one of my small access doors and just couldnt buff it to the shine yours looks to be. I had it acid washed and now in certain areas there are water marks running down where I assume the acid eventually ran off after rinsing. Any suggestions on how to get rid of those types of marks? The never-dull seemed to do nothing about the marks. Thanks in advance! Matt |
